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Vehicle over heating? Vehicle not heating up fast enough? Vehicle heats up just fine but you get no heat in the cabin? This post is just for you! If you have overheated your vehicle, also read this .
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Whatever your relationship with the automobile, it is important to understand who built it. The trouble with auto manufacturers is that they are always building stuff for each other. This post will help sort out who built what, for who, and why it matters.

First thing first, let’s get acquainted with the major automotive families. Automotive families are different makes that are all made by the same manufacture. Many times manufactures will want to produce a regular run of vehicles, and then a more luxurious run of models. They will produce what is essentially the same vehicle, but badge them differently and pack one with all the high end wonders people love.

The major automotive families include …

Toyota, Lexus, and Scion. Honda and Acura. Nissan and Infinity. Hyundai and Kia. BMW and Mini. Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda and Seat. Jaguar and Land Rover. Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury. Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep, Plymouth and Eagle (Here shortly, toss in Fiat). General Motors, Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Cadillac, Pontiac, Buick, Hummer, Saturn, and GMC (As well as Opel, Vauxhall, Holden and Daewoo). You can always tell a terrible product, because they will have numerous names for the same bad product.
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Whenever I recommend a new timing belt and water pump, I am often asked, “Can i do that myself?”. My short answer is, “No”. I would not recommend your average vehicle owner to attempt replacing their timing belt and water pump. We often see cars come in here with minor to major problems stemming from another shop installing a timing belt wrong.

That being said, here are some tips to help ensure the proper installation of a timing belt and water pump.
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Subaru Trouble Codes 1000-1099

P1086 Tumble generator valve #2 (LH) position sensor circuit low input
P1087 Tumble generator valve #2 (LH) position sensor circuit high input
P1088 Tumble generator valve #1 (RH) position sensor circuit low input
P1089 Tumble generator valve #1 (RH) position sensor circuit high input
P1090 Tumble generator valve #1 (RH) malfunction (stuck open)
P1091 Tumble generator valve #1 (RH) malfunction (stuck close)
P1092 Tumble generator valve #2 (LH) malfunction (stuck open)
P1093 Tumble generator valve #2 (LH) malfunction (stuck close)
P1094 Tumble generator valve circuit #1 (open circuit)
P1095 Tumble generator valve circuit #1 (over current)
P1096 Tumble generator valve circuit #2 (open circuit)
P1097 Tumble generator valve circuit #2 (over current)

Subaru Trouble Codes 1100-1199

P1100 Starter Switch Circuit Malfunction
P1101 Neutral Position Switch Circuit High Input (A/T)
P1101 Neutral Position Switch Circuit Malfunction (M/T)
P1102 Pressure Sources Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction
P1103 Pressure Sources Switching Solenoid Valve Circuit
P1104 Engine Torque Control Signal Circuit Malfunction
P1106 Engine Torque Control Signal 2 Circuit Malfunction
P1110 Atmospheric pressure sensor low input
P1111 Atmospheric pressure sensor high input
P1112 Atmospheric pressure sensor range/performance problem
P1115 Engine Torque Control Cut Signal Circuit High Input
P1116 Engine Torque Control Cut Signal Circuit Low Input
P1120 Starter Switch High Input
P1121 Neutral Position Switch Circuit High Input [MT Vehicles]
P1121 Neutral Position Switch Circuit Low Input [AT Vehicles]
P1122 Pressure Sources Switching Valve Circuit High Input
P1124 TCS Signal Circuit High Input
P1130 Front oxygen sensor circuit malfunction (open circuit)
P1131 Front oxygen sensor circuit malfunction (short circuit)
P1134 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor microcomputer problem
P1137 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor circuit range/performance problem
P1139 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor #1 heater circuit performance/range problem
P1141 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit High Input
P1142 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Low Input
P1143 Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P1144 Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P1146 Pressure sensor circuit range/performance problem (high input)
P1150 Front Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit High Input
P1151 Rear Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit High Input

Subaru Trouble Codes 1200-1299

P1230 Fuel pump control unit malfunction
P1244 Wastegate control solenoid valve malfunction (low input)
P1245 Wastegate control solenoid valve malfunction (fail-safe)

Subaru Trouble Codes 1300-1399

P1301 Fire due to increased exhaust temperature
P1312 Exhaust temperature sensor malfunction
P1325 Knock Sensor Circuit Low Input

Subaru Trouble Codes 1400-1499

P1400 Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid Low Input
P1420 Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid High Input
P1421 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit High Input
P1422 EVAP Purge Control Valve Circuit High Input
P1423 EVAP Vent Control High Input
P1440 Fuel Tank Pressure Control System Low Input
P1441 Fuel Tank Pressure Control System High Input
P1442 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Range/Perf
P1443 EVAP Control System Vent Control Function Problem
P1480 Cooling fan relay 1 circuit high input

Subaru Trouble Codes 1500-1599

P1500 Radiator Fan Relay 1 Circuit Malfunction
P1501 Idle Control System Malfunction (Fail Safe)
P1502 Radiator Fan Function Problem
P1507 Idle Control System Malfunction (Fail Safe)
P1510 Idle Air Control Solenoid Signal 1 Circuit Low Input
P1511 Idle Air Control Solenoid Signal 1 Circuit High Input
P1512 Idle Air Control Solenoid Signal 2 Circuit Low Input
P1513 Idle Air Control Solenoid Signal 2 Circuit High Input
P1514 Idle Air Control Solenoid Signal 3 Circuit Low Input
P1515 Idle Air Control Solenoid Signal 3 Circuit High Input
P1516 Idle Air Control Solenoid Signal 4 Circuit Low Input
P1517 Idle Air Control Solenoid Signal 4 Circuit High Input
P1518 Starter switch circuit low input
P1520 Radiator Fan Relay 1 Circuit High Input
P1540 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction 2
P1544 High exhaust temperature detected
P1560 Back-Up Voltage Circuit Malfunction
P1590 Neutral position switch circuit high input
P1591 Neutral position switch circuit low input
P1592 Neutral position switch circuit (MT model)
P1594 Automatic transmission diagnosis input signal circuit malfunction
P1595 Automatic transmission diagnosis input signal circuit low input
P1596 Automatic transmission diagnosis input signal circuit high input

Subaru Trouble Codes 1600-1699

P1698 Engine torque control cut signal circuit low input
P1699 Engine torque control cut signal circuit high input

Subaru Trouble Codes 1700-1799

P1700 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction (A/T)
P1701 Cruise Control Set Signal Circuit Malfunction (A/T)
P1702 Auto Trans Diagnosis Input Signal Circuit
P1703 Low clutch timing control solenoid valve circuit malfunction
P1704 2-4 Brake Timing Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction
P1705 2-4 Brake Pressure Solenoid Valve (Solenoid D) Circuit
P1711 Engine torque control signal 1 circuit malfunction
P1712 Engine torque control signal 2 circuit malfunction
P1722 Auto Trans Diagnosis Input Signal High Input
P1742 Auto Trans Diagnosis Input Signal Malfunction

1988 and later Multi-Point Fuel Injection (MPFI) Subaru Trouble Codes

11 Crank angle sensor or circuit
12 Starter switch or circuit
13 Cam position sensor or circuit (TDC sensor on Justy)
14 Fuel injector no. 1 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX); Fuel injector 1 and 2 (XT, Loyale, GL, DL)
15 Fuel injector no. 2 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX); Fuel injector 3 and 4 (Loyale, GL, DL); Fuel injector 5 and 6 (XT6)
16 Fuel injector no. 3 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX); Fuel injector 3 and 4 (XT)
17 Fuel injector no. 4 (Legacy, Impreza, SVX); Fuel injector 1 and 2 (XT6)
18 Fuel injector no. 5 (SVX)
19 Fuel injector no. 6 (SVX)
21 Coolant temperature sensor or circuit
22 Knock sensor or circuit (right side on SVX)
23 Air flow meter or circuit (exc. Justy); Pressure sensor (Justy)
24 Air control valve or circuit (exc. Justy); Idle speed control solenoid valve (Justy)
25 Fuel Injector 3 and 4 (XT6)
26 Air temperature sensor (Justy)
28 Knock sensor no. 2 (SVX, left side)
29 Crank angle sensor (SVX, no. 2)
31 Throttle position sensor or circuit
32 Oxygen sensor or circuit (no. 1, right side on SVX)
33 Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) or circuit
34 EGR solenoid valve
35 Canister purge solenoid or circuit
36 Air suction solenoid valve (Impreza); Igniter circuit (Justy)
37 Oxygen sensor (no. 2, left side , SVX)
38 Engine torque control (SVX)
41 Air/fuel adaptive control
42 Idle switch or circuit
43 Throttle switch (Justy)
44 Wastegate duty solenoid (turbo)
45 Pressure duty solenoid (turbo)/atmospheric pressure sensor circuit (non-turbo)
49 Airflow sensor
51 Neutral switch (manual transmission)/inhibitor switch (automatic transmission)
52 Parking brake switch (exc. Justy)/Clutch switch (Justy)
55 EGR temperature sensor
56 EGR system
61 Parking brake switch (Loyale)/Fuel tank pressure control solenoid valve (Impreza)
62 Fuel temperature sensor (Impreza)/Electric load signal (Justy)
63 Fuel tank pressure sensor (Impreza)/Blower fan switch (Justy)
65 Vacuum pressure sensor

1988 and later Subaru models with Single-Point Fuel Injection.

11 Crank angle sensor or circuit
12 Starter switch or circuit
13 Crank angle sensor or circuit
14 Fuel injector – abnormal output
21 Coolant temperature or circuit
23 Air flow meter or circuit
24 Air control valve or circuit
31 Throttle sensor or circuit
32 Oxygen sensor or circuit
33 Vehicle Speed Sensor or circuit
34 EGR solenoid or circuit
35 Purge control solenoid or circuit
42 Idle switch or circuit
45 Kick-down control relay or circuit
51 Neutral switch continuously in the on position
55 EGR temperature sensor or circuit
61 Parking switch or circuit

1987 Fuel Injected Subaru Trouble Codes

11 Ignition pulse/crank angle sensor
12 Starter switch or circuit
13 Crank angle sensor or circuit
14 Injectors 1 and 2
15 Injectors 3 and 4
21 Coolant temperature sensor or circuit
22 Knock sensor or circuit
23 Air flow meter or circuit
24 Air control
31 Throttle sensor or circuit
32 Oxygen sensor or circuit
33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or circuit
34 EGR solenoid valve stuck on or off
35 Purge control solenoid or circuit
41 Lean fuel mixture indicated
42 Idle switch or circuit
45 Kick-down relay or circuit
51 Neutral switch or curcuit
61 Parking switch or circuit

1984 – 1986 Fuel Injected Subaru Trouble Codes

11 Ignition pulse
12 Starter switch off
13 Starter switch on
14 Airflow meter or circuit
15 Atmospheric pressure switch – fixed value
16 Crank angle sensor or circuit
17 Starter switch or circuit
21 Seized airflow meter flap
22 Pressure or vacuum switches – fixed value
23 Idle switch – fixed value
24 Wide open throttle switch – fixed value
25 Throttle sensor idle switch or circuit
31 Speed sensor or circuit
32 Oxygen sensor or circuit
33 Coolant sensor or circuit
34 Abnormal aspirated air thermosensor
35 Air flow meter/EGR solenoid switch or circuit
41 Atmospheric pressure sensor or circuit
42 Fuel injector – fixed value
43 KDLH control system
46 Neutral or parking switch or circuit
47 Fuel injector
53 Fuel pump or circuit
55 KDLH control system
57 Canister control system
58 Air control system
62 EGR control system
88 TBI control unit

1983 – 1988 Carbureted Subaru Trouble Codes

11 Ignition pulse system/crank angle sensor(87 & later)
12 Ignition pulse system (1983 only)/Starter switch (84 & later)
13 Crank angle sensor or circuit
14 Vacuum switches stay on or off (1983 only)/Duty solenoid or circuit(1983 to 1985)/Injectors 1 & 2 (87-up)
15 Solenoid valve stays on or off (1983 only)/Coasting Fuel Cut (CFC) system (1983 to 1985 )
16 Feedback system (1983 to 1985 models)
17 Fuel pump and automatic choke (1983 to 1985 carbureted)
21 Ignition pulse system (1983 only)/coolant temperature sensor or circuit (1983 to 1985 carbureted)
22 Ignition pulse system (1983 only)/Vehicle speed sensor or circuit or VLC solenoid valve or circuit. (1984 to 1988 carbureted)
23 Oxygen sensor or circuit (1983 to 1988)/pressure sensor or circuit (1983 to 1985)
24 Vacuum switches stay on or off (1983 only)/coolant temperature sensor or circuit, or Idle-up solenoid or circuit (1984 to 1988 carbureted)
25 Manifold vacuum sensor or circuit/coolant temperature sensor or circuit on 1984 models)/float chamber vent solenoid valve or circuit (1983 to 1985)
32 Coolant temperature sensor or circuit (1983)/Oxygen sensor or circuit (1984 to 1988)
33 Main system in feedback (1983 to 1988)/Vehicle speed sensor or circuit (1983 to 1985)
34 Choke power stays on or off (1983)/EGR system solenoid or circuit (1883 to 1988)
35 Canister purge solenoid or circuit (1983 to 1985)
41 Vacuum switches stay on or off (1983 only)/Feedback system (California models 1983 to 1985)
42 Vacuum switches stay on or off (1983 only)/clutch switch or circuit (1983 to 1988)
43 Choke power stays on or off (1983)
46 Radiator fan control (1983 to 1985)
52 Solenoid valve control system or clutch switch
53 Fuel pump circuit or Altitude compensator switch
54 Choke control system
55 Upshift control or EGR sensor
56 EGR system
62 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) solenoid valve control or Idle-up system
63 Canister solenoid valve or circuit/Idle-up system
64 Vacuum line control valve or circuit
65 Float chamber vent control valve circuit
71 Ignition pulse system
73 Ignition pulse system
74 Ignition pulse system

Follow your manufacturer’s suggested maintenance schedule, but here are a few helpful guidelines.

Keep all service records, and keep them together. From every oil change to major repairs, a service record is highly valuable. From a re-sale point a view, handing someone a folder of what you have done to maintain a vehicle is a shocker. Plus, if you do happen to have a problem with your car, an extensive service record is beyond valuable for a mechanic. Saving your repair records will save you money in the long run.

Never ignore a check engine light. There are no check engine light causes that “don’t matter”. Any condition that will turn on the check engine light will effect the way the vehicle’s computer delivers fuel and ignition timing, and thus fuel economy and power. The computer sees that their is a fault present, and changes its strategy from optimised fuel economy and power to to engine preservation.

Also, the check engine light is the only way the vehicle has to alert you to a problem. If the check engine light is on for a problem you know about, it will still be on when the vehicle has another problem. I don’t know how many times a car has come into the shop for a check engine light and the customer is floored to hear the computer has stored a dozen different codes, all of which require separate diagnoses, and repairs. Also repair the cause of a check engine light, it is important, no matter the cause, and it should be fixed.

Change your engine oil EVERY 3,000 miles. I recommend using Oil BG’s MOA (motor oil additive) with every oil change. Furthermore, I recommend you use an engine cleaner and fuel treatment every 4th oil change. All of these oil changes that use BG products come with a BG roadside assistance card. These cards are good for a gallon of gas, having someone unlock your car, or a free tow to the shop. In most cases, a new air filter should be replaced every oil change, or maybe every other oil change. The air filter not only is a huge determiner in fuel economy, but it is the most important barrier between you engine and dirt. Dirt is the engines worst enemy, and the air filter is the only line of defense to prevent dirt being sucked into the motor. Lastly check your engine oil every time you fuel up.

Change any fluids that apply to your vehicle regularly. Automatic transmission fluid, standard transmission fluid, power steering fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid, should be replaced every 30,000 miles in most cases. Some newer vehicle are “filled for life”. These vehicles have to recommended service intervals for the fluids. Check with your service provider for more details. Generally speaking, fluids break down, and become dirty. Dirty and old fluids causes other more expensive problems, and flushing the fluid from a system and replacing it with new is often the first step in a repair process. Be proactive with your fluid maintenance and you will undoubtedly save money in the long run.

Replace your radiator cap every spring. They are inexpensive, and ware out faster than most people think. Plus, your radiator cap is actually one of the most important parts of your cooling system. The radiator cap maintains the proper amount of pressure in the cooling system. Without a properly working radiator cap, an otherwise perfect cooling system will fail and cause the vehicle to overheat. Overheating an engine is one of the worst things that can happen to it. You can technically have the radiator cap tested, and nine times out of ten the radiator cap on a car does not hold the specific amount of pressure they should.

If you go to a mechanic and ask for a “tune up”, they will most likely think you are asking for an ignition tune up. Ignition tune ups should be performed in accordance with the manufactures maintenance schedule. The mileage between ignition tune ups varies greatly and may be 30,000 miles, or 120,000 miles. A proper ignition tune up may include just spark plugs (for those vehicles equipped with coil on plug ignition), or may require spark plugs, ignition cables (spark plug wires) a cap and rotor. Always, make sure you have the proper spark plug in your vehicle. If you are unsure what plugs should be in your car, email scotty@clvr.tv, and Scotty will tell you the exact plugs you should be using. Also, when it comes to ignition cables, you really get what you pay for, so I recommend paying for top notch ignition cables.

The often overlooked “tune up” is the fuel system tune up. Many cars are equipped with a fuel filter which should be changed every 30,000 miles (some vehicles have the fuel filter in the gas tank and are not regularly changed). I also recommend a top end de-carb and injector purge every 30,000 miles. When you have a de-carb done, make sure to ask the mechanic to clean the throttle body and Mass air flow (MAF) sensor (if equipped with a MAF). Proper maintenance of the fuel system will help maintain the best fuel mileage possible.

Most imported cars, and many domestic cars have a timing belt. The timing belt and water pump should most definitely be change before the recommended mileage as a broken timing belt often results in a damaged motor, and a costly repair bill. Timing belts are scheduled for 60,000 -120,000 miles depending on vehicle. Ask your mechanic when your timing belt and water pump are due, and he will gladly tell you.

Rotate those tires regularly, and keep them full of air. Also, take your car out on the highway and stretch its legs once in a while. Cruising down the highway helps clear carbon out of the car, and is just good for a car at least once in awhile.

I understand all this maintenance seems expensive, but I often perform these same procedures to repair problems. It’s better to plan for them, plus it may save you a tow bill. Also, the cost of this maintenance is often covered by the fuel you save from having a properly maintained vehicle.

happy motoring.